The Heritage Issue

Photography By Sindy Gonzalez | Last Updated April 25, 2023

Kimberly Ruessler raises heritage pigs and other animals at Lola Farms in Lake Butler, Florida

“Food history is as important as a baroque church. Governments should recognize cultural heritage and protect traditional foods. A cheese is as worthy of preserving as a sixteenth-century building.”

Carlo Petrini

At some point during the production of each issue, I find myself diving headfirst down a rabbit hole researching a topic related to the theme. While working on this one, the Heritage issue, I came across The Times-Herald Yearbook for 1928 & Citizens’ Manual for Palatka and Putnam County. It was created “with the conviction that it will serve a very useful purpose as a dependable and convenient source of information concerning various matters of daily interest to the general public.” I hope residents at the time found the handbook helpful. I sure did, for the snapshot it gave me of a local community nearly 100 years ago.

The most interesting information in the manual? What and When to Plant in Putnam County, compiled by Edward L. Mann, of the Mann-Hodge Seed Company in Palatka. Although the company is no more, the list of nearly 50 fruits and vegetables to be grown here throughout the year was quite robust and could be used as a modern-day guide. Along with field seeds to plant as cover crops, the list included Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, collards, kohl-rabi, okra and strawberries. I was surprised to see roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) mentioned as something both farmers and home gardeners could grow. Turns out many Florida homesteaders in the late 19th century grew this. The recent surge in roselle’s popularity demonstrates once again that what’s old is new again.

The Heritage issue honors the past and showcases how that has shaped our current foodways. Read about the Florida Heritage Foods project and their work connecting the state’s multicultural history with heritage crops (including roselle). Learn how raising heritage hogs for food may help save them from extinction. Florida has been the leading producer of winter strawberries since the early 20th century, and we have tips on how to grow them at home. Meet Becky Gonzalez, the owner of 1928 Cuban Bistro who launched her restaurants as a tribute to her grandparents (and then try your hand at one of her family recipes). Read why keeping a food business all in the family is not always easy. If you’re looking for a new flavor to use in craft cocktails, be sure to check out the recipes using yaupon tea.

As I look at Northeast Florida through the lens of food, I’m encouraged to see so many people dedicated to their own heritage and surroundings, and the critical role they play in enriching our community and culture.

Lauren Titus, Editor

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STORIES FROM THE HERITAGE ISSUE