Off the Eaten Path: DeLand
When wanderlust sets in but vacation is still months away, a quick trip to new, nearby places may be just the answer for breaking the monotony of daily routine. The key to a successful getaway is finding a locale close to home, (so travel doesn’t take up too much time), packed with a variety of activities and culinary offerings to please everyone in the group. One destination that fits the bill is the West Volusia town of DeLand, located just 90 minutes from most areas of Northeast Florida.
Originally called Persimmon Hollow, DeLand was renamed in 1876 to honor Henry A. DeLand, an early benefactor of the town. Nicknamed the Athens of Florida, it is home to Stetson University, Florida’s oldest college. While the college and the area’s history play a significant role in its identity, downtown DeLand has become the hub of a thriving modern community, reflecting an appealing blend of the past and the future. Indeed, one may feel like an excursion to DeLand is a visit to a parallel universe.
DeLand was the first community in Florida to receive the Main Street designation. A visit will quickly reveal why it won the 2017 America’s Main Streets award promoting buying local products and advocating for independently owned businesses. Efforts by the MainStreet DeLand Association reflect a concerted effort to nurture the community’s entrepreneurial spirit, as dozens of local restaurants and shops are housed in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century buildings.
“We all support each other, and recognize the importance of having more offerings both for the local population as well as visitors to DeLand,” said Melisa Reed, president of the MainStreet DeLand Association and owner of The Table, a downtown restaurant. “Real estate developers make spaces accessible to entrepreneurs, and that has done a lot to make DeLand as special as it is. It’s great to see so many younger people taking risks and opening businesses here.”
With so many options in such a small area, where does one start an excursion? To get right to the urban action, head to the intersection of New York Avenue and Woodland Boulevard and park in a public lot or find a street-side spot. This is a walkable town, and one can easily spend a day exploring on foot.
Start the day with a cup from Trilogy Coffee Roasting Co., brewed in a cozy café located at 136 W Georgia Avenue, with an atmosphere that suggests all customers are instantly regulars. The menu includes espresso beverages, teas, pastries and even a selection of popsicles from The Hyppo. Check out the artwork displayed on the walls as the barista prepares the seasonal Sweet Bloom, a honey-lavender cold brew, and listen to locals review the previous night’s offering at Café daVinci, a musical venue down the street.
Trilogy’s owner Clay Cass began roasting coffee at home, learning about flavor profiles from a friend. He did not set out to open a café. His venture into the coffee business began at the DeLand Farmers' Market in 2014 and, based on the positive reception he received at the weekly market, Cass realized how DeLand would benefit from a good local coffeehouse.
“Coffee is a catalyst for community, and we want to create a memorable experience for our customers and our town. Our business is primarily more about people than coffee,” said Cass. The name Trilogy represents Cass’s three-pronged philosophy on what it takes to get a great cup of java: start with high quality ingredients, work with passionate people and support the community.
According to Cass, DeLand’s strong local identity and multigenerational population help create a “craft culture,” with an appreciation for the arts, good food and community. “We are always looking for a reason to shut down Woodlawn Avenue and have a party, as a way to promote meaningful connections with each other,” he said.
The importance of connection with, and to, others is a recurring theme of a visit to DeLand, and is clearly on display at The Table, a large restaurant on the corner of New York and Woodland. Owner Melisa Reed considers the restaurant a place to get back to one’s roots, where meals are an opportunity to slow down and have conversations. “I remember having dinner at my grandmother’s house, where everything was made from scratch and we talked to each other, with no distractions. That’s the same experience I want to create here, where everyone has a seat at the table,” she said.
The menu changes seasonally, and daily specials are inspired by ingredients gathered from local farms. Good news for those who feel breakfast is a meal that should be offered throughout the day. The Table serves breakfast from open to close daily, with a brunch buffet on Sunday. Vegetarian options include Avocado Toast and Yogurt Parfait with fresh fruit. Chicken and Waffles is a perennial favorite: chicken thighs with a crunchy coating alongside several mini waffles, topped with candied pecans and bourbon maple syrup. With a wide range of dishes, it isn't hard to please everyone in the group.
Besides dining and shopping, DeLand offers opportunities for art-lovers too. The renovated historic Bert Fish building is home to the Museum of Art - DeLand, a non-profit community visual arts venue located on Woodland Boulevard. In addition to the permanent collection, the Museum features rotating exhibits, gallery talks, educational programming, master artist workshops and special events throughout the year.
There’s plenty of public art on display throughout the city, with 15 murals around the downtown area. The mural on the wall outside the Museum commemorates the DeLand Naval Air Station, which operated during the Second World War. One of the more well-known murals is "DeLand Wings," painted on a wall in Pill Alley, one block off Woodland.
Hungry again? A great lunch spot can be found at 110 Artisan Alley – BakeChop, a small eatery serving dishes with a focus on sustainability and locally sourced ingredients. Co-owners Stevie Vermillion and Taylor Bass worked together at a previous restaurant in the same location. When the former owner closed the restaurant, Vermillion and Bass decided to keep the business going, putting their culinary beliefs into action. They re-opened in 2016, with a lot of help from friends and family. A cousin made the tables from cypress trees in her yard, while other family members helped with painting and other renovations.
The name BakeChop is a combination of the co-owners’ culinary pursuits: Vermillion is passionate about pastry, while Bass trained as a chef at a culinary school in New York. Collaboration has been key to their success. “We got a lot of support from the culinary community in DeLand,” said Vermillion. “We wanted to create a restaurant that we could feel good about coming to, serving familiar and comforting ingredients. Now we have regulars who come every day.”
Dish names reflect the playful spirit at BakeChop. Daily specials, referred to as the Daily Dally, are based on what one of their chefs brings in from his garden, where he grows vegetables, herbs and fruit year-round. Adventurous eaters should try the Yeti, with venison sausage, caramelized onions, charred sweet peppers, mushrooms and herbed cheese. Seafood lovers, meanwhile, will enjoy diving into the Who’s Wanda, featuring grilled shrimp, grilled avocado, pineapple salsa and a tangy adobo mayo. Desserts, baked in-house, are a must.
“We have been really lucky. Ten years ago, people wouldn’t come to this side of town. Now DeLand is receptive to progressive thinking and businesses with a green mindset,” said Vermillion. “This town has come together to create a family, a really good community.”
At this point in the day, a break in the urban environment may be needed. Fortunately, between strolls downtown, there are several springs close by and scenic parks near the majestic St. Johns River (the only American Heritage River in Florida), providing spectacular natural beauty, fascinating birds and an abundance of wildlife. Outside the city limits sits De Leon Springs State Park. Take the plunge and go 25 feet down to the mouth of the springs, where about 16 million gallons of water are released a day. Bird-watchers at Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge can get an eyeful of birds and other wildlife, while manatees can be spotted at Blue Spring State Park. If you are ready to leave the city, consider Hontoon Island State Park, accessible only by private boat or park ferry. Canoe or hike around the island, then check out the Hontoon Island Museum to learn about the area’s first inhabitants.
Before leaving DeLand, there are a couple of other must-try spots downtown. For artistry on the plate (and on the walls), stop by De La Vega Restaurante Y Galeria on Woodland Boulevard. Chef Nora De La Vega runs the kitchen while her brother Mano oversees the front of the house. Open since 2004, the Latin fusion menu has evolved, though many of the dishes are inspired by De La Vega’s mother. “She is a great cook,” said the chef, who grew up in Mexico.
One of the most popular dishes is Hibiscus Tacos. These corn tacos are filled with roselle hibiscus flower petals, a common ingredient in Latin cuisine, then topped with sauteed onions, cilantro and a red pepper sauce. Chicken Green Gazpacho is another option for a spin on a classic dish. “We take flavors from a variety of Latin culinary traditions and add our own twist. We are not just selling food, we offer an experience. We make sure our guests leave happy and want to come back,” De La Vega said.
Finally, if Happy Hour is in order, make sure a visit to DeLand includes a stop at Persimmon Hollow Brewing Company, whose motto is Drink Sensibly, but Get Weird. Partners Robbie Carelli and Andy Sistrunk met several years ago when Carelli’s then-girlfriend was babysitting Sistrunk’s children. They bonded over music and brewing beer at home. When their third batch won an award at a home brewers gathering, they decided to jump into the craft brewing business together to pursue their passion for American and Belgian-style craft ale. Some of their beers are made with fruit from local farmers, and the partners feel it is important to have relationships with local growers. “We get our citrus from Vo-LaSalle Farms in DeLeon Springs, and our spent grain goes to a local cattle operation,” said Sistrunk.
The brewery, opened in 2014, is located in a 1920’s former parking garage and Western Auto Shop at 111 W. Georgia Avenue. Persimmon Hollow is part of the SoNY (South of New York Ave) neighborhood. “The city invested in this street and through a public-private partnership, we won an underutilized building grant from DeLand’s downtown community redevelopment agency,” said Carelli. “The vision is a thriving arts and entertainment district supported by strong retail.”
After a spending a day in DeLand, this vision of collaboration and the sense that "all boats rise with the tide" is clearly on display. Don't be surprised if you find that your next visit will need to be longer, allowing more time for meals and strolls through downtown. Fortunately this pedestrian-friendly place makes it easy to do just that.