Roots of Resilience

Northeast Florida Farmers are Reinventing Local Agriculture

Ben Wells stands in the field of organic produce at his farm in St. Augustine. Photos by Amanda Rosenblatt.

Forecasting is the process of predicting or calculating based on results of relevant data. This term has many applications, but in the agricultural industry, forecasting the weather has been the basis of many decisions on farms. This is a daily occurrence for growers, as they decide whether to fertilize, manage pests, irrigate or harvest. But forecasting is not limited to the weather.

It is also influenced by demands of the consumer, changes in seasonal climates and even the price of seed. These routine choices escalate into larger, big picture decisions for farmers: Do I continue to grow this crop species? Do I invest in AI equipment? Do I convert from conventional to organic? Do I open my gates to agritourism? The day-to-day decisions of farming help growers determine if there is a need to evolve or stay consistent in the long run.

St. Johns County has a long history of agriculture, and while it is known for being home to the “Potato Capital of Florida” in Hastings, not all farmers have continued to grow potatoes. Some have maintained the potato growing tradition but diversified their crop rotations with more plant families. A few have started with chip potatoes and converted to producing fresh, tablestock varieties. Others left potatoes behind and went in a completely different direction. What do they all have in common? They monitored the forecast and determined that it was in their best interest to either diversify or change their production practices. What binds these farmers together is a shared spirit of innovation – a deep understanding that survival means constant evolution.

The Johns family of Tater Farms began as a potato producing farm in Hastings. But in 2005, Frank Johns began the transition from potatoes to sod, which ultimately proved to be a great and prosperous conversion. That one plot has expanded into 4,000 acres, and a reputation for excellence in the turf industry. That is why they are often requested by UF/IFAS to host on-farm sod research trials, such as with Dr. Kevin Kenworthy of the Agronomy Department. Dr. Kenworthy has worked with Tater Farms and referred to them as being a “constant source of support” for his decades of research, while representing “one of the state’s largest and most influential growers.”

The evolution of Tater Farms continued in 2018 as Carleton and his mother and farm owner, Polly, started planting citrus trees. They already mastered the method of producing a perennial crop like turf, so citrus seemed to be right up their alley. “I enjoyed that I could finally grow something that I could eat,” says Carleton. When he was younger, while helping his dad sort out the rotten potatoes, he wished that they grew something sweet like berry or fruit crops, so this has been a long-term dream.

Historically, citrus was a common commodity in the area, as seen in all the names of towns and cities in surrounding counties that pay homage to citrus: Fruit Cove, Mandarin, Orange Mills, Satsuma. Northeast Florida is not new to citrus production; it migrated south as our winters became too chilly to risk the chance of freezing. As invasive pests and changing climates challenged traditional cultivation, farmers like the Johns found new paths forward, with North Florida potentially becoming a sanctuary for cold-hardy tangerine varieties such as the Noble Juicy Crunch Tangerine, available at various grocery stores in Northeast Florida.

Ben Wells Produce in St. Augustine tells another chapter of this ongoing story of agricultural adaptability. For three generations, the Wells family grew potatoes, but Ben saw an opportunity to take a chance at adding in another form of farming – certified organic production. Was this decision based on consumer demands or personal preference? “A little of both,” says Ben. “We are always looking for innovative ways while continuing sustainable practices to create diversity.” He has accomplished this while continuing his large-scale, conventional production with Frito-Lay. Ben also says that this helps him maintain a team of skilled workers year-round, “as well as keeping our employees busy while we await our grand finale – our potato harvest.”

This new organic practice does not apply just to potatoes, but to a wide range of species and varieties, from carrots to green beans to okra. Converting to USDA certified organic production practices is not quick nor easy; it's especially challenging in Florida. Fields must be spared from any prohibited substances for three years, along with maintaining records of the farming practices and an annual inspection. Ben and his family explained that they continue to add more seed varieties to their rotation as North Florida’s weather patterns can be quite challenging. He credits his ability to evolve with the changing seasons to seed research as it has provided the “greatest advantage to extending crop seasons and creating a quality product.” This philosophy has resulted in multiple awards from Frito-Lay for their potato crop quality.

Our farming community is adapting to many changes, ranging from increased flooding problems to rising market values of land. To maintain a career in agriculture, farmers, like all business owners, must be profitable to maintain their operation. Some years they break even, with factors intervening outside of their control. They face challenges like the flooding of creeks which prevent parcels of fields from draining properly. There are limited crop species that can handle standing water, but they do exist, like rice and sugarcane.

Since the pandemic, St Johns County property values have skyrocketed, and farmland is a convenient site to start development, as it has low property taxes with large chunks of cleared land for commercial or residential projects. Farming tends to be a family effort. Agricultural landowners have to consider keeping their legacy behind for future generations as well as the ability to retire comfortably.

The challenges continue, and our farmers of St. Johns County are proving that they can adapt, survive and be successful. There is still great hope for the legacy of farming in this community, even with rising sea levels and a great spike in population growth. What can we as consumers do to help farmers stay in business? Ben Wells says that we should educate ourselves on the seasonality of our crops and “purchase the agricultural products that come from American farms.” Conveniently, you can find what's in season to support buying local.