Drink Up: André Mack & the Future of Wine

Photography By Amy Robb | September 12, 2018

Winemaker André Mack and Kiley Wynne Efron drink wine at Taverna San Marco in Jacksonville

Kiley Efron of Taverna and winemaker André Mack share a bottle of wine. Or two.

Maison Noir. Say it out loud with a French accent and it sounds pretty fancy. Add the word “wine” to the end, and one sheepishly begins to wonder just how much a glass of that fancy will cost. But if there's one thing consumers are learning about wine these days, it's that drinking it doesn't have to be enormously expensive, nor a stuffy affair. While some connoisseurs (perhaps rightfully) still wield a snooty disposition toward their vino vocation, there's a new generation of industry professionals on a mission to make the world of wine a bit easier to drink, so to speak.

Case in point is André Mack, founder of Maison Noir Wines. At age 30, André was the first African American to win Best Young Sommelier in America, and since then, he has continued to prove he's a mover and shaker in the industry. With a street-smart brand (and wine labels like Love Drunk rosé, Bottoms Up white, and O.P.P. – “other people's pinot”), he's an unassuming guy, respectful of tradition, but constantly looking for ways to push the boundaries of his craft.

André recently passed through Northeast Florida for a winemaker's dinner at Taverna San Marco, and we caught up with him, along with Kiley Efron (proprietor and wine director at Taverna) before the dinner began to get their perspectives on a few things. The conversation was a lot like one might expect from both the maker and a purveyor of Maison Noir Wine: fun, easy to drink, and anything but fancy.

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André -- How did you first become interested in wine and winemaking?

Believe it or not, my interest in wine was sparked by watching old episodes of Frasier. It was something about those two pompous brothers that made me feel like I was missing out and needed to invite wine into my life. Never did I think that it would lead me to a life of winemaking but it definitely sparked my curiosity.

You left a corporate desk job in finance to pursue a career in the wine industry. What led you to this transition? Was it a sound business opportunity — or simply a risk you took to follow your passion for wine?

I was totally bitten by the wine bug and devoted every waking moment to learning more about this tasty beverage! It was totally a risk – there was really no opportunity, I had to create it. I was really unhappy at my corporate desk job and realized that I needed to make a change and ultimately left without having a solid plan.

Wine is a drink that’s steeped in tradition, and yet, today— it’s also more readily available to the masses than ever before. What’s one winemaking trend you see that may be a game-changer for the industry?

I believe that we’re going to see better quality wines in alternative packaging i.e. killer wine in a box. We've also seen the meteor rise of wine in the can and I believe we’re just at the tip of the iceberg.

Cans and boxes of wine. Is it possible to find wine worth drinking without a cork?

Oh, just you wait!! it’s coming in a very big way - it’s only the beginning!!

Do you often collaborate with restaurants carrying your wine? If so, what does that relationship entail? Have you learned more about food, as a result of your interest in wine?

Last year I logged over 280 days on the road in various marketplaces doing these types of dinners. In most cases I’ve never had the chance to try the food of these restaurants so I always empower them to create the menu after sampling my wines on their own and I just require the opportunity to scan over the menu to voice any types of concerns. I’ve always had a strong background in food just based on my relationships and the places that I’ve worked in my career. The interesting thing about being a sommelier -- it’s just not knowing about wine you also have to know food and it’s preparation to do your job effectively.

Kiley, what originally drew you to Maison Noir Wines and inspired you to include them on your wine list?

I designed Taverna’s Wine Program to be an experience! I wanted a wine list that was fun to explore and encouraged people to try lesser known varietals and regions. When people try wines at Taverna, I want them to discover that great wines don’t have to be expensive.

It is also really important to me that regardless of the price, every wine on the list has to have a sense of place, be varietally correct, and be crafted in a manner that honors those aspects. Our philosophy on cooking is based on creating handcrafted cuisine that honors and showcases the ingredients and I wanted a wine program that mirrored that.

Growing up in the Bay Area in the late 80's and 90's, Hip Hop was really the music of my youth. From the naming and labeling of his wines to the overall attitude of the brand, I loved André's nod to Hip Hop and Punk culture. I was also initially drawn to Maison Noir because they are exceptionally well made wines that are priced affordably, and I felt their philosophy was very much in line with our own. People also enjoy wines that have a story behind them and André Mack’s story is hard to ignore!

André, when you think of Jacksonville — what’s the first thing that comes to mind? What impressions do you have of this place?

To be honest, this is my first visit to Jacksonville and the only thing that really comes to mind is your NFL team [the Jaguars]. But what I quickly learned was that it has a young promenade restaurant scene that I’m looking forward to getting to know in the coming years.

Kiley, why do you feel it is important to bring nationally renowned winemakers, such as André Mack, to Jacksonville? What does it mean for our local food + drink community?

Jacksonville's culinary and drink community has grown dramatically over the past 10 years. There are some really incredible restaurants who offer cuisine, craft cocktails, and wine programs that mirror the quality found in larger cities such as San Francisco or New York. Even more importantly they are run by restaurateurs who are excited about being a part of the cultural evolution of this city and patronized by guests who have sophisticated palates and know quality. I think it's only a matter of time before Jacksonville becomes recognized for its culinary and drink offerings similar to cities like Charleston and Atlanta. Being able to attract renowned wine makers such as André demonstrates that Jacksonville is becoming a larger player in the culinary South.

Want to sample a glass of Maison Noir wine? Visit Taverna San Marco any night of the week. You'll find it on their list.