All in the Family
In a family-run food business, children often get a first-hand glimpse at the challenges of a life dedicated to hospitality, and the long hours with slim margins frequently push them into entirely different careers. Yet, some children possess the same passion for the industry as the previous generations, choosing to follow in their elders’ footsteps and take over businesses they may have grown up in since childhood.
Nicolas Thorton, of Alexander & Sons Shrimp Company, joined what was originally the Ferrell’s Seafood family back in 2005 – first through a job and later through marriage. He works alongside his father-in-law Goober (aka Robert Ferrell Alexander). Thornton took some time in between orders for fresh shrimp at the shop on North Main Street in Panama Park to explain the lineage of Alexander & Sons. “Goober's mom and dad started Ferrell’s Seafood in 1989. There were very few employees over the years that weren't family or became family,” says Thornton.
He worked there and many friends of the grandkids along with Goober's aunts, uncles, cousins and friends all took turns as employees. “Goober sold Ferrell’s [to a friend of the family] in 2013 to be able to shrimp full time,” Thornton says. “Although Ferrell’s is no more, we continued the family business when we opened Alexander & Sons Shrimp Company [in 2017]. My wife (Goober's daughter), brothers-in-law and I all picked up shifts to get us going. Many of our old customers from Ferrell’s recognized all of us and the word spread that we were back in business.”
Early in 2023 Thornton and Goober launched a food truck serving fried shrimp and hush puppies as an extension of the business, which was a dream-come-true for both. Thornton says they have been able to innovate while staying true to their roots because of “a solid foundation that our previous generations instilled into us,” he says. “We know how to stay true by only serving the freshest, local, wild-caught shrimp. Something else I have learned from the generations before me is to fight. We have to fight the economy, the competitors, the naysayers. But you have to keep your head up and remember where it all started.
Thornton notes that adapting to technology – and social media in particular – can be a challenge for some older family members, so he manages those tasks to help the business stay current. “I feel that as the younger of the business partners, even though I'm 35, I still try to keep up with the social media platforms and appeal to a wide range of customers,” he says.
As for the next generation, Thornton says it’s too soon to tell. “I have one son and at this moment, he is nine years old, and his dream is to be a Georgia Bulldog football player. If he does decide to continue the family shrimp business, he will definitely know the heritage and history behind it all. He does help head shrimp, help customers and knows how important our family business is. My niece is only 4 but if she decided to continue the shrimp business, Uncle Nick, her Pappy and her dad would make sure she has all the knowledge she would need.”
Joseph’s Pizza on Main Street in Jacksonville's Panama Park neighborhood is a long-time family business being run by a new generation. Originally established in 1956, Joseph’s has been continuously operated by the Bateh family since they purchased it in 1969. Sisters Sabrina Bateh Kuruvilla, Susie Bateh and Sandra Bateh currently co-own the business, which now has two locations. Their parents, “Mama Rose” and Mufeed Bateh, who became known as “Joseph,” worked side by side each day. “They had a passion for cooking great food and building relationships with customers,” says Sandra. “Mama Rose always said that our dining room is an extension of our home. All are welcome!”
The sisters agree that in addition to their parents being there full time, the three of them grew up at Joseph's. “We learned at a young age to bus tables, cashier, serve customers and cook. Even today, the next generation can be found in the kitchen or bussing tables on the weekend,” says Sabrina. “It's important to us that our family understands the importance of service and how Joseph's Pizza has always been a place that brings family together. We all support each other.”
The sisters have each taken on a different role at Joseph’s, but they all agree that the biggest challenges in running a multi-generational business are staffing and balancing operations with family time. They also point out an issue that's unique to this type of business: how to ensure that the business remains in the family as time passes, something they say is extremely important to discuss and plan all along the way.One intergenerational challenge the Bateh family has faced – and is common in businesses passed down from generation to generation – is modernization. “For example,” Susie says “our mom did not learn how to use a computer so when we changed from a traditional cash register to a POS system, she stopped cashiering. However, she always stayed involved in the business. It was important to her.” And as for one of the biggest rewards, the Betah sisters are now getting to see their own children help run the business, from cooking to cleaning tables to greeting customers.
Food also runs in the veins of Ben Groshell’s family. His mother, he says, was his greatest influence. “Her love of travel, entertaining and cooking inspired my desire to become a chef. Through Children’s International Summer Village, which my mother began in Jacksonville, I was able to travel at a very young age," says Groshell. “This experience broadened my culinary exposure. She fostered a love of seafood and of cuisine from around the world.”
In 1992, Groshell, a Culinary Institute of America-educated chef, opened Marker 32 on Beach Boulevard. Since then, his company, Southern Table Hospitality, has launched several other concepts, including the Palm Valley, North Beach, Julington Creek and St. Augustine Fish Camps. Along the way, Groshell says his role “evolved from hands-on executive chef and owner of Marker 32 to culinary director in charge of business development, concept creation, training and mentoring and quality control of all locations.”
He sees the greatest challenge in a family business is making sure the work ethic is established right from the start by providing the building blocks needed for success. “You have to recognize each person’s unique strengths and ways to develop their own style," he says.
Groshell’s sons, Jacob and Nick, grew up in and around the family business. Now, with the launch of AB Kitchen in the Atlantic Beach town center, the two sons are following in their dad’s footsteps. Nick, a fellow graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, serves as the executive chef, while Jacob is the manager.
“AB Kitchen is a collaborative effort. It began as an idea for a food truck our son Jacob had, which evolved into the surf themed beachside bistro it is today,” says Groshell. “My wife Liza designed the interior to reflect the influence of the menu and the travel experiences our family shares.” Jacob and Nick’s sister Maxine handles catering and special events for AB Kitchen, truly making it a family affair.
