Black Flag over a Bountiful Sea

As an independent regional operation, the Black Flag’s fortunes depend entirely on the seasons. The seasons dictate not only what fish can be caught, but what type of fishing is economical. During grouper season, fishermen have an incentive to spearfish heavily, pursuing grouper and other large reef fish. Outside grouper season, the focus shifts to snapper and other smaller fish caught with reels, leaving less time for diving, and therefore often leaving markets short on spearfishing species.

Commercial reef fish licenses authorize both snapper and grouper fishing, but even different types of snapper have different seasons. Mangrove snapper and hogfish can be caught all year, while vermillion snapper have two seasons from January until the national quota is filled, and from July until a second quota is filled. Due to overfishing, commercial red snapper season is determined annually.

For snapper, typically each crew member operates an industrial bandit reel, which can carry up to five hooks at once. When the current is weak, bites are hard to detect on heavy-duty reels, and they switch to fishing poles. Snapper are a major target as they are abundant, and their soft, moist texture and mild flavor is in demand throughout the year. Fish caught alongside snapper include bluefish, barracuda and the odd wahoo.

Other fish are more strictly bound by seasons. Cobia, for instance, only pass through North Florida waters twice annually during migrations between the Carolinas and the Florida Keys. “They’ll be here for three weeks, and then you won’t see them,” said Nickle. Flounder come heavier in February and the summer, following food and weather. Grouper stay put, but they’re protected. Their season runs from May 1 to January 1 and closes earlier if national quotas are reached. Similarly, amberjack season is closed for April and from December to March.

Grouper are popular as they are mild like snapper, but with a firm, though moist and flaky texture. The crew usually catches them with spearguns, which requires diving. It’s a more laborious process, but size matters. “Instead of catching these 2- to 4-pound fish, we’re shooting 15- to 30-pound fish,” Bencivenga said. Spearfishing is also more efficient. “We shoot only what we keep, there’s no bycatch, no unnecessary killings.”

Other spearfishing targets include queen triggerfish, flounder and lionfish. Introduced by humans, lionfish are highly invasive. They multiply like calculators, eat everything on the reef and have no natural predators. “They’re out of control,” Walker said. “That’s why these guys go down there and shoot them all.” Indeed, the state encourages fishermen to spear as many as they can, something the Black Flag crew do with great relish.

As it turns out, too, lionfish are delicious, with white, flaky and tender meat. Though increasingly popular on menus in South Florida, lionfish are still catching on in the north, partly due to their venomous reputation. But Bencivenga tells customers not to worry. Only the spines carry venom, and fishermen clip them before selling. The meat is perfectly safe. Indeed, they’re one of Benny’s favorite meals, “Any way — ceviche, grilled, poached, fried … even sushi. They’re delicious.” After a few days onshore, the Black Flag will head out for another trip, if the weather gods consent. “Whenever the weather’s good, we have to go,” Bencivenga said. “Because sometimes in the wintertime, we can’t fish for 30 days since the weather’s so rough.”

The true price of fresh, seasonal fish is uncertainty — uncertainty for the fishermen who must navigate the capriciousness of the weather and the ocean, and uncertainty for the customers who can’t be sure stores will have their favorites. But once you’ve tasted a vermillion snapper fresh off the Black Flag, grilled up with a little butter, flaking off your fork and melting on your tongue, you’ll know it’s worth the price.