The Umami Issue

Last Updated October 20, 2022
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"Umami ... is the quasi-secret heart and soul of almost every braise, stew and soup."

Michael Pollan

When I sit down to write this letter for each issue, my goal is to give you some context about the theme and, shall we say, whet your appetite for the content on the following pages. This issue is no exception; in fact, the theme itself is known for causing diners to salivate, in a good way.

Welcome to the Umami issue, an exploration of what has come to be known as the fifth taste (in addition to salty, sweet, bitter and sour). Identified as umami a little over 100 years ago, the name comes from the Japanese word for deliciousness. You might not know the term itself, but if you eat mushrooms, Parmesan cheese, tomato paste, miso, anchovies, soy sauce and many other common ingredients, you know what umami is – delicious. Learn more about the discovery of glutamate, how this amino acid triggers receptors on our tongues and why MSG gets a bad rap in the story on page 18.

In fact, that appeal to your taste buds may be essential for good health. Glutamate is the most common excitatory neurotransmitter in our brains, and acts as a signal in many other biological processes, including digestion. Research has shown that older people who can no longer detect umami have reported lower appetite, weight loss and poorer overall health than their peers. If you’re ready to add more umamirich foods to your meals, check out the list of staples to add to your pantry on page 22. One of those ingredients, mushrooms, seem to be popping up everywhere, as you can read in the piece about the ‘shroom boom.

Head into the kitchen with this issue’s recipes to whip up a meal, including dessert and cocktails, exploding with umami. Have a taste for homegrown tomatoes? We’ve got some tips to help set you up for successful harvests. And find out how umami represents the American dream for one local chef.

I hope our seventh anniversary issue has you salivate (in the good way) over all the ways our local food and drink community enhances the flavors of our daily lives. And when you frequent our advertisers, be sure to thank them for their support of our vision and commitment to local. It is with their partnership that we’re able to share Edible Northeast Florida with you. Many thanks also to our loyal readers, subscribers and contributors who have helped make the past seven years so spectacular. We look forward to another year of providing a community platform for the discussion and celebration of our region’s evolving food system.

Lauren TitusEditor


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STORIES FROM THE UMAMI ISSUE

 

The Shroom Boom in Northeast Florida

mushrooms
The spore the merrier.

What is Umami?

umami
The essence of deliciousness

Umami Curry: An American Dream Come True

umami curry
A food truck finds a permanent home in Jacksonville.

Shiitake Steak with Miso-Braised Daikon Radish

shiitake steak
Shiitake mushroom powder is easy to make. Start with dried shiitakes and grind in a food processor or blender until fully pulverized into a powder.

Furikake Rice Puffs

furikake rice puffs
Make these crispy appetizers for happy hour or a dinner party. Furikake, from the Japanese word for sprinkles, is a seasoning mixture of dried seaweed, sesame seeds, herbs, salt and fish flakes. Find...

Sesame Miso Chip Cookies

Chocolate, sesame seeds and miso combine for savory and slightly sweet results

13 Umami-Rich Pantry Staples

anchovies
Add the essence of deliciousness to your cooking

Tips for Growing Tomatoes

So many varieties, so little time!

Pairing Whiskey with Food

whiskey matsuri
Cocktails like Whiskey Matsuri go well with umami-rich dishes.

Whiskey Matsuri

whiskey matsuri
Suntory Whiskey has a subtly sweetness yet spicy finish with hints of ginger. This cocktail, called Whiskey Matsuri (matsuri means festival in Japanese), is a riff on whiskey sour and features...

Breakfast of Champions

breakfast of champions cocktail
Beef tallow, used on the rim of the glass, can be found in the meat section of most grocery stores.

Strange Pilgrims Cocktail

strange pilgrim
Umami Bitters, made by the Japanese Bitters company, are an easy way to add umami notes to any cocktail.

Grapes of Wrath

grapes of wrath cocktail
Aquafaba is the leftover liquid in a can of chickpeas and is often used as a substitute for egg whites.

Northeast Florida Mushroom Growers

basket of mushrooms
Find these fungi at local markets
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